PROFESSIONNEL DE LA COULEUR
Pre-softening: Pre-softening is the process of lifting the cuticle layer of the hair to speed up the penetration of a chemical service. In our case of pre-softening to apply hair colour to resistant grey hair, we recommend the following steps.
1.) Apply CROMATIQUE Stabilizing Oxidizing Cream 20 VOL. to resistant grey hairs prior to any washing or colour application.
2.) Allow to process 10-15 minutes at room temperature. This will swell the hair and slightly raise the cuticle layer.
3.) Rinse the Stabilizing Oxidizing Cream off the the hair. The hair then may be blown-dried to a mostly dry state.
4.) Apply CROMATIQUE colour as directed. Colour will penetrate more effectively into the resistant grey hair with the raised cuticle through this process. This process allows for easier grey coverage and truer colour results.
|Table 3 Coverage of Grey Hairs|
|Type of Grey Hair||Peroxide||Exposure Time||Comment|
|Normal||20 Vol.||30 minutes||Colours cover greys directly|
|Resistant||20 Vol.||30 minutes||Option 1: Mix desired tone with corresponding base 1:1|
|Option 2: Cuticles opended|
|Option 3: Pre-pigmentation|
0% - 50% Grey: Apply the desired colour to hair as directed.
50% - 100% Grey: Mix desired colour with a Natural Base of the same level. The mix ratio is 50/50. 50% desired CROMATIQUE colour with 50% CROMATIQUE Natural Base.
The Natural Base series provides optimum coverage of grey hair. In cases of extremely resistant grey hair, use the ULTIME 7 series. ULTIME 7 are base shades identical to CROMATIQUE Natural bases but were developed with high intensity colour pigments and a formula that ensures the best penetration of colour in the difficult to cover/resilient grey hair.
Covering Resistant Grey with ULTIME 7:
25% Resistant Grey: Mix 75% CROMATIQUE desired colour with 25% ULTIME 7.
50% Resistant Grey: Mid 50% CROMATIQUE desired colour with 50% ULTIME 7.
75-100% Resistant Grey: Mid 25% CROMATIQUE desired colour with 75% ULTIME 7.
In ALL cases, whether using CROMATIQUE Natural or ULTIME 7, or a combination of both, always mix 1:1.
Mix 1 Part CROMATIQUE Stabilizing Oxidizing Cream to 1 Part CROMATIQUE Colour. The exposure time is 30 minutes at room temperature.
*It is important that application begins from the front, if there is a high percent of grey hairs.
**It is important to note that a perfect grey coverage does not mean that all hair will have the same end tone, as it is understood that grey/white hair receiving colour will produce a lighter tone than darker hair receiving the same colour.
directions as stated and 30 minute processing time.
Extremely Difficult Grey Coverage:
In the extreme case, when the above formulas are not enough to successfully cover the grey hair, the professional colourist may choose to use the technique of pre-softening or double pigmentation.
Double Pigmentation: Double Pigmentation is the process of applying a double dose of pigments to the hair. In our case of double pigmentation for extremely resistant grey hair, the process is only applied to the grey hair.
1.) Apply CROMATIQUE colour cream without mixing with CROMATIQUE Stabilizing Oxidizing Cream or any developer. Apply directly to resistant grey hair.
*Only apply to grey hair sections
2.) Mix the same CROMATIQUE colour as previously applied with CROMATIQUE Stabilizing Oxidizing Cream 20 VOL.Mix according to standard directions, (1:1 ratio) and apply directly on the top of the pre-pigmented hair. Follow standard directions as stated and 30 minute processing time.
Complete grey coverage is the number one desire of the colour professional. In some cases, it is so important that the end result of complete coverage compromises the quality, health and natural integrity of the hair.
At La Kremm Hair Science, we developed all our CROMATIQUE colours to address the desire and importance of 100% grey coverage but also sought to maintain and actually promote the health quality and natural integrity of the hair while providing long lasting vibrant colour.
CROMATIQUE Natural Bases were developed with intense natural tones ensuring maximum penetration of the colour pigment, guaranteeing the highest possible hair colour coverage. Naturals traditionally are based on a natural brown. CROMATIQUE'S Natural series is based on a natural brown; a combination of all three primary colours, red, yellow and blue at each level.
Each natural level within the CROMATIQUE line was developed with its own unique combination of the three primary colours, our darkest Natural with more blue and our lightest less blue/ yellow dominant. Each CROMATIQUE Natural base is neutral, that is, it is a perfect balance between warm and cool tones.